I had no preconceived notions of Islam prior to my arrival. Not that I know of, anyways. I studied Islam quite thoroughly in my undergraduate journey, but all I gained was a superficial understanding of its history, pillars and connections to the other Western religions. While information may be helpful, there is no substitute for experience. I had no idea what to expect…
Moving backwards, I'm an American volunteer living and working in a small town in Morocco. Morocco is a Muslim country; if you are born in this country, you are born Muslim. Once you're in the club, there is no leaving. Morocco is 99.9% Muslim with the remaining 0.1% consisting mostly of expats and a tiny Jewish population. This is a complete contrast from America's 0.8% quiet Muslim community. Not surprisingly, Morocco is said to be one of the most tolerant Muslim countries in the world. While I'm not equipped to supply an opinion on this, I want to explore the notions of culture and religion in Morocco and whether the two can be distinguished.
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I arrived in Morocco not knowing a word of Arabic. At orientation, we were provided with survival language training: thank you, please, water, bathroom. We were split up into groups of five and sent away to our respective communities for 10 weeks. During this time, we endured intensive language training for eight hours a day, six days a week learning an alien language (Tashelhit). More importantly, though, each individual had to stay with their own host family. Let me tell you, that 10 weeks transforms you. I became the tenth member of a rather poor Berber family - we depended on carbs. I call my host mom, "Mom." She gave me my Arabic name, Jawad.
After this training period, we became real volunteers and moved to our respective sites. My site is in Southern Morocco, the dustiest place I've ever been. With a small foundation in a language spoken by fewer people than the city in which I was raised, I was well on my way.
Religious harassment is just a part of life. By that I mean, everyday life. I've nearly been tricked into converting -all it takes is saying the shahada three times- they had me at two before I figured it out. Sexual harassment is also relatively routine for women (mostly foreigners). Prostitution is well accepted (and practiced); men become perplexed when I deny their offers to pay. Condoms are a rarity; the topic, taboo. Even HIV/AIDS is a topic that must be raised with discretion, but things are slowly progressing. Moroccans are notoriously racist towards Asians, but you'll get shit if you're carrying anything but their burnt-caramel color. If your accent is even slightly off, you're getting ripped off - no doubt about it. Vegetarians and vegans are constantly given hell - in a developing country, there is no room such a preference/intolerance. Tattoos are haram (forbidden by Islamic law), but thousands and thousands of Muslim women have them on their faces. What the hell is going on here? Besides criminal activity, Moroccans generally believe they aren't doing anything wrong when screaming "Jackie Chan!" while karate chopping our Asian American volunteers, or charging a foreigner a little extra, etc. etc. etc. I came to realize that different cultures also have different notions of good and bad behavior.
On the other hand, I can't walk five steps on any given street without people calling my name just to say, "Jawad! Hey!" Another five steps down the road, a demand that I enter the house for tea - a glass of tea would be an appropriate emblem for this country. Every day comes with an offer of lunch, cookies, soda, you have it, mostly by strangers who want to get to know the American who speaks the local tongue. One of my best Moroccan friends calls/teaches me bad words, so I can actually defend myself in an argument. He tells me when I've crossed the line, too. I can leave my very expensive government-issued bicycle unlocked and unattended for hours on end and it will either be exactly where I left it or in the possession of a protector. My presence brings such happiness to my host family that it breaks my heart. My baby host sister has called me "Baba" on a number of occasions - yeah, it's awkward. Hitchhiking is absurdly easy (Why don't Americans hitchhike anymore?). Complete strangers will go out of their way to help a person in need without asking for anything in return. You may offer them compensation for their time or services - they won't be offended, but they won't accept the tip. Instead, they'll reply with, "No thanks necessary. It is my duty." -I never knew hospitality could go this far.
I constantly find myself asking the question, "Now, which of these aspects are of culture and which are of religion?"
It's difficult to separate culture from religion in a place like this because there really isn't much a difference at all. The two are so intertwined that it is difficult to finish a sentence without involving Allah in one way or another. In the name of God. God bless your parents. May God help you. May God give you peace. May God make it easy. GOD! Further, I've found that when looking at other Muslim countries' cultures, we're also looking at different interpretations of the Qur'an and Hadith within Sunna or Shia branches. And while I'm not Muslim, I feel like Morocco has something good going on. No doubt it's far from perfect; constitutional monarchies are a tough sell. But any developing country is going to have serious economic, political, and social issues. Despite this, I feel as if Morocco is progressing towards "Developed" status. Morocco's Arab Spring was won through parliamentary elections. Guns are strictly prohibited. Violent crime is relatively low. While this is widely contested, HIV/AIDS rates in Morocco (0.3%*) are 1/10th from that of America (3.2%). In contracts both verbal and implied, people trust each other whole-heartedly. Morocco will soon have one of the largest solar plants in North Africa. People pay taxes. The government subsidizes electricity and gas. Morocco has indications of an active and involved government.
I can't seem to find much of a difference between culture and religion here in Morocco, but I think it's just that: Morocco is an Islamic culture. They eat, breathe, sleep, and make children in the name of Allah. In America, the epidemic of Islamophobia is still rising, so it is now my duty to inform you all that my time spent here has shaped my views of the Islamic world in a very positive light - enough to want to spread the message. While volunteers disagree with me on all topics mentioned, each person has a unique experience throughout their service providing many unique perspectives - this is mine.
Moving backwards, I'm an American volunteer living and working in a small town in Morocco. Morocco is a Muslim country; if you are born in this country, you are born Muslim. Once you're in the club, there is no leaving. Morocco is 99.9% Muslim with the remaining 0.1% consisting mostly of expats and a tiny Jewish population. This is a complete contrast from America's 0.8% quiet Muslim community. Not surprisingly, Morocco is said to be one of the most tolerant Muslim countries in the world. While I'm not equipped to supply an opinion on this, I want to explore the notions of culture and religion in Morocco and whether the two can be distinguished.
---
I arrived in Morocco not knowing a word of Arabic. At orientation, we were provided with survival language training: thank you, please, water, bathroom. We were split up into groups of five and sent away to our respective communities for 10 weeks. During this time, we endured intensive language training for eight hours a day, six days a week learning an alien language (Tashelhit). More importantly, though, each individual had to stay with their own host family. Let me tell you, that 10 weeks transforms you. I became the tenth member of a rather poor Berber family - we depended on carbs. I call my host mom, "Mom." She gave me my Arabic name, Jawad.
The mud house of my host family with our guard dog, Rokie.
The Dirty South
---Religious harassment is just a part of life. By that I mean, everyday life. I've nearly been tricked into converting -all it takes is saying the shahada three times- they had me at two before I figured it out. Sexual harassment is also relatively routine for women (mostly foreigners). Prostitution is well accepted (and practiced); men become perplexed when I deny their offers to pay. Condoms are a rarity; the topic, taboo. Even HIV/AIDS is a topic that must be raised with discretion, but things are slowly progressing. Moroccans are notoriously racist towards Asians, but you'll get shit if you're carrying anything but their burnt-caramel color. If your accent is even slightly off, you're getting ripped off - no doubt about it. Vegetarians and vegans are constantly given hell - in a developing country, there is no room such a preference/intolerance. Tattoos are haram (forbidden by Islamic law), but thousands and thousands of Muslim women have them on their faces. What the hell is going on here? Besides criminal activity, Moroccans generally believe they aren't doing anything wrong when screaming "Jackie Chan!" while karate chopping our Asian American volunteers, or charging a foreigner a little extra, etc. etc. etc. I came to realize that different cultures also have different notions of good and bad behavior.
On the other hand, I can't walk five steps on any given street without people calling my name just to say, "Jawad! Hey!" Another five steps down the road, a demand that I enter the house for tea - a glass of tea would be an appropriate emblem for this country. Every day comes with an offer of lunch, cookies, soda, you have it, mostly by strangers who want to get to know the American who speaks the local tongue. One of my best Moroccan friends calls/teaches me bad words, so I can actually defend myself in an argument. He tells me when I've crossed the line, too. I can leave my very expensive government-issued bicycle unlocked and unattended for hours on end and it will either be exactly where I left it or in the possession of a protector. My presence brings such happiness to my host family that it breaks my heart. My baby host sister has called me "Baba" on a number of occasions - yeah, it's awkward. Hitchhiking is absurdly easy (Why don't Americans hitchhike anymore?). Complete strangers will go out of their way to help a person in need without asking for anything in return. You may offer them compensation for their time or services - they won't be offended, but they won't accept the tip. Instead, they'll reply with, "No thanks necessary. It is my duty." -I never knew hospitality could go this far.
I constantly find myself asking the question, "Now, which of these aspects are of culture and which are of religion?"
It's difficult to separate culture from religion in a place like this because there really isn't much a difference at all. The two are so intertwined that it is difficult to finish a sentence without involving Allah in one way or another. In the name of God. God bless your parents. May God help you. May God give you peace. May God make it easy. GOD! Further, I've found that when looking at other Muslim countries' cultures, we're also looking at different interpretations of the Qur'an and Hadith within Sunna or Shia branches. And while I'm not Muslim, I feel like Morocco has something good going on. No doubt it's far from perfect; constitutional monarchies are a tough sell. But any developing country is going to have serious economic, political, and social issues. Despite this, I feel as if Morocco is progressing towards "Developed" status. Morocco's Arab Spring was won through parliamentary elections. Guns are strictly prohibited. Violent crime is relatively low. While this is widely contested, HIV/AIDS rates in Morocco (0.3%*) are 1/10th from that of America (3.2%). In contracts both verbal and implied, people trust each other whole-heartedly. Morocco will soon have one of the largest solar plants in North Africa. People pay taxes. The government subsidizes electricity and gas. Morocco has indications of an active and involved government.
I can't seem to find much of a difference between culture and religion here in Morocco, but I think it's just that: Morocco is an Islamic culture. They eat, breathe, sleep, and make children in the name of Allah. In America, the epidemic of Islamophobia is still rising, so it is now my duty to inform you all that my time spent here has shaped my views of the Islamic world in a very positive light - enough to want to spread the message. While volunteers disagree with me on all topics mentioned, each person has a unique experience throughout their service providing many unique perspectives - this is mine.
What a nice little window into a culture [religion?] we know little about. I work for a non-profit in the summers that has me traveling around the US. It would kill some of these rural country folk to learn that aside from the Islamaphobia they harbor, they actually share some real honest values and views about God. I once met some kids who thought I was black, because they could not conceive any other skin color aside from black and white.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I want to expand your last thought and ask, "Do certain values exist in cultures that stem from a particular religion?", values that would help you distinguish between religion and culture. For instance, early 20th-century sociologist/economist Max Weber claimed that capitalism stemmed from Protestant work ethic*. Beyond identifying these 'religious values', how could they be from that particular religion?
PS, I must be missing something, why's BABA awkward?
PPS: Don't know why there's a random asterisk. The C and period are located far from the shift and 8 keys.
ReplyDeleteWOW! What are you doing in your volunteer work?
ReplyDeleteI have viewed Islamophobia as a jacked up family feud. Starting with the drama between brothers Isaac and Ishmael, Islam and Christianity have never sat right with eachother.
Just like how you can become annoyed when someone is TOO much like you, I think that Christianity and Islam have many similar values and hate eachother for it.
Well it's apparent that Islamophobia is spreading in (stupid) parts of America. I think that is so we can invade Mid East countries & justify it because 'those people are evil & crazy!'.
I'm curious to hear about the other side.. the 'Christianiophobia'. From what you see, is there a movement similar to Islamophobia but against Christianity and Western culture in the Mid East?
1. thank you SO much for that post. extremely insightful and thoughtful.
ReplyDelete2. rita, i love your comment about isaac and ishmael. also the idea that the fear comes when things are SO similar to each other! i relate this to families, and how we feel that we can talk to our siblings differently than strangers or friends. for example i called my mom a bitch once bc i knew she would never forsake me and she was being total bitch. i punched my sister in the mouth once for being a bitch (im really not insane, just passionate ;)). i have never hit or called any one of my best friends this way (unless jill you remember something i dont haha). same issue goes between protestants and catholics! we feel as though we have leeway when the love reaches a certain depth (family vs. friends).
3. i grew up in a jewish suburb and always wondered the same thing about culture/religion. in general, most of them had no answer, to them, the 2 were not separate, but twined just as you said.
4. yes please expand on rita's question: "I'm curious to hear about the other side.. the 'Christianiophobia'. From what you see, is there a movement similar to Islamophobia but against Christianity and Western culture in the Mid East?"
5. again, thanks for this post.
Great post- really inspiring and enlightening.
ReplyDeleteI think the Islamophobia in America grows out of the same source of most cultural/social/religious phobias: ignorance and lack of familiarity. Many (/most) Islamophobes in this country have probably never had a close relationship with a Muslim person or the Muslim culture, or have only had some sort of shallow experience. For a lot of these people in the US, their main experience with Islam is tied to the events of 9/11 which obviously grew out of extremism. Of course, any rational person would think "Well, there are extremist portions of nearly every sample of people, regardless of what it is that those people have in common," but sadly it's easier for some to lump an entire group of unfamiliar people together based on the unrepresentative actions of a few.
Jamie- lol you were such a toughie growing up!
ReplyDeleteYes Derek, I agree- and in our culture we see too often that the extreme cases get news coverage & attention... Not only muslim extremists, but: Extreme policital candidates get airtime instead of rational ones, extremely stupid people on reality shows (Kardashians), extreme violence and sex, even extreme food (Carls jr six dollar burger).
Well maybe this all comes from how our news needs to be entertainment, not an actual gauge of reality... Many people are using news based on extremes to become informed. That could be dangerous because then we become the extremists!
^ IF YOU HAVEN'T YET SEEN "IDIOCRACY" NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT.
ReplyDeleteMr. DLV - I think I know what you're asking, but I can't think of any institutions that are endorsed as a result of the religion, per se. The Arab League (before 2011) was primarily made up of monarchies, which may be the result of religious guidance - I suppose it could be coincidence, too. The king of Morocco, for example, is said to be a decendent of the prophet, Mohamed. However, this is seldom discussed (people hate when I bring it up) and often denied in private conversation. Besides that, the unparalleled hospitality is definitely from the religion - it says that one must open their home to a stranger for three days upon request. Guests are treated very well here.
ReplyDeleteIt was awkward for me that little baby Hana called me "baba" because I was around more than her father, who was working his chops off to feed his family. It made me feel like I was invading - like she had seen me as her surrogate dad.
ritabook, et al. - I am a Small Business Development volunteer working with a women's cooperative who specialize in traditional Berber crafts.
Interestingly -or not depending on your interests- the largest holiday in Morocco (think three days of Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas) is the celebration of Eid al Adha - Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son Ishmael. Each family is required to sacrifice at least one sheep if it is within their means. Definitely my favorite Islamic holiday. SLAUGHTER
Now, in regards to Christianophobia - a great question! Muslim people recognize that their religion stems from Christianity (and also Judaism); they share the same prophets and consider Christians "brothers." They have a lot of respect for Christian people. Furthermore, so long as you believe in one god, you're alright in their book. Judaism is a tough one because of the Palestine/Israel conflict - so they think the state of Israel (and also the Jews) should be destroyed. However, if you seem friendly enough they'll accept you for who you are - even if you are Jewish. The one phobia Moroccans generally do have is of globalization. As information and technology spreads, cultures, languages, and religions are becoming increasingly threatened. Morocco is in a liberalization period, which is being met with fear and anger from conservatives/traditionalists. The Marrakech remote-control bombing was aimed at toursits (over a 15 tourists were killed) who are being blamed for these unwanted changes. But to answer your question directly: No. There is absolutely no Christianophobia. They do recognize American Islamophobia by our wars. I am asked, "Why does America hate Islam?" To which I respond, "we voted in Barack Hussein Obama!" -I have no sufficient response.